Ok, so I was up creating this blog until 3:30 am last night so after a VERY late start today I ended up inadvertently doing some backtracking. I thought I hadn't been to Wenceslas Square when in fact I had the first day in my jet-lagged haze so that was an hour and a half walk wasted but all was not lost. I did manage to find a yummy tiny sandwich for 17 Krona ($1). :) If you ever plan to visit, I would suggest missing this because it's not as pretty as the rest of the city and it's really just a bunch of shops apart from the National Museum.
I ended up taking the Metro from the National Museum to Malestranske Nameste and bought a ticket to a classical music concert in Lichtenstein Palace/Academy of Music. Concerts start early here (from 4:30 pm to 7:00 pm.) The program covered Mozart, Vivaldi, Pachelbel, Bach, Dvorak, Bizet and Brahms. It was a quintet consisting of 3 violins, a cello and upright base. They played some of my favorite pieces (Eine Kleine Nachtmusik, Slavonic Dance Nr. 8, Hungarian Dance Nr. 5, and the Suite from Carmen.) You could see the pride on their faces and they would play a little harder on the Dvorak pieces, their home-town hero.
The music was good but the venue left something to be desired. After seeing the grand facade, I thought I'd be in a concert hall when in fact it was a small room with a low ceiling. The musicians were good but not great and the absence of any real ambiance as a venue was a detraction. I'm going to try again tomorrow and shoot for a church.
I noticed a guy sitting behind me who appeared to be traveling alone as well. He spoke to me after the concert. Small world, he was living in Boston but is currently on a world tour before accepting a job in either Italy or Brazil. His name is Igor and he's from Brasil. Yes, I know, Igor sounds Russian, not Brazilian, I pointed that out. Turns out his mom is a fan of classical music too and likes composer Igor Stravinsky. We chatted and walked about as I looked for souvenirs.
Random Thoughts:
I've heard the music from Carmen for years and love it but have never seen the opera and didn't know the words that went with the music. I knew virtually nothing about it except that it's a tragic love story about a passionate woman. After seeing it, (and maybe it's just this production) I realized that Carmen is a cold bitch.
It's funny walking around hearing American music from every shop. Either top 40/Dance or '80s. I wasn't expecting that. There's also a few McDonald's but with a twist. Stopping in one to ask for directions, I almost laughed because all of them employees were wearing ties. As if that makes fried food more upscale or less fattening. Interesting marketing ploy, Ronald or was that the Hamburglar's idea?
I forgot to mention that I'm surprised I can still smell anything today after using a public Water Closet yesterday and the old woman in the small, obviously too-warm toll both, nearly blew out my sensitive American olfactory senses with her BO.
It's a bit odd that the trams are in the same lanes as cars. So in Boston, you know how you might cross a track while taking a turn? Well here, you'd be in front or behind a tram. Cars run right over the tracks and trams beep at cars, it's a little crazy. That said, the Metro and tram system is great. It runs every few minutes and is fast, clean and pretty comprehensive. Just beware that they announce the stop you're at and the upcoming stop so don't get off too soon.
Another oddity, the streets are pretty dead by 10:00 pm (11:00 pm on weekends), most shops close around 6:00 or 7:00 pm. It's hard to get used to since most shops are open until 9 or 10 pm at home.
Still trying to decide on Karlovy Vary's healing springs and Grand Hotel Pupp or Cesky Krumlov's medieval city for an excursion outside of the city...
Monday, November 30, 2009
Sunday, November 29, 2009
To Prague and Back Again - DAY 3:
After another late start, it was a relaxing day. I headed out and took the funicular up Petrin Hill to Petrin Tower that offers great views of the city. While walking down the tower I ran into a guy from Philadelphia also traveling alone. We got to chatting, grateful to have someone else to talk to. We took a tram to the Castle and visited some sights I didn't see the day before (the fighting giants in one fo the Castle squares) and walked down a different side street with great views of the city to the Charles Bridge.
We walked around Old Town and then grabbed a bite to eat before he headed to an ex-pat bar to watch a football game and I headed to the National Theater to see Bizet's opera Carmen. I paid 500 Krona ($25) for a box seat. The singing and music was great but the dancing and acting were in line with the $25 ticket price. I felt totally under dressed in jeans and a sweater with a backpack but again, it was a last minute decision. I wasn't the only one in jeans but pretty much everyone else was dressed up.
There's a lot more to see and only 3 days left. I'm hoping to do a side trip to one or both of Cesky Krumlov and/or Karlovy Vary. Cesky Krumlov is a medieval city and Karlovy Vary is supposed to have spas with healing waters as well as one of Europe's oldest hotels, The Grand Hotel Pupp (yes, it was in the movie The Last Holiday with Queen Latifah.) :)
We walked around Old Town and then grabbed a bite to eat before he headed to an ex-pat bar to watch a football game and I headed to the National Theater to see Bizet's opera Carmen. I paid 500 Krona ($25) for a box seat. The singing and music was great but the dancing and acting were in line with the $25 ticket price. I felt totally under dressed in jeans and a sweater with a backpack but again, it was a last minute decision. I wasn't the only one in jeans but pretty much everyone else was dressed up.
There's a lot more to see and only 3 days left. I'm hoping to do a side trip to one or both of Cesky Krumlov and/or Karlovy Vary. Cesky Krumlov is a medieval city and Karlovy Vary is supposed to have spas with healing waters as well as one of Europe's oldest hotels, The Grand Hotel Pupp (yes, it was in the movie The Last Holiday with Queen Latifah.) :)
To Prague and Back Again - DAY 2:
I was exhausted but after 13 hours of sleep, I think I was on the right time and ready to see the city, not through a bleary-eyed haze. After a late start, I headed to the Castle, its grounds and basilica. Amazing stained glass windows and a choir singing made it worth while. I kept thinking I'd actually see a castle but the all the building on the ground are the "Castle" and what you see from afar and think is the castle, is the basilica.
Wandering down a side street were some open vistas overlooking the city, lined with the art nouveau glass lanterns. Walking back over the Charles Bridge I took some evening photos of the saints lining the bridge and then happened upon the lighting of the Christmas tree in Old Town and saw the famous Astronomical Clock. The Christmas markets were open and the square was packed to bursting.
I stopped in a little shop with wifi to grab a hot chocolate and ended up meeting a nice couple from Florida. We got to chatting and when they ordered their second pizza, I asked if it was good. They said yes, they were going to order a third to take back to their hotel. They offered me a piece and we chatted. When their third pizza came, they gave me another piece and wished me well as I tried to make an opera.
There was no opera, only Shakespeare and I didn't feel like listening to Iambic pentameter with a Czech accent, sooooo, I headed back to Old Town and took some more photos of the tree and tower. I offer to take photos of couples and then ask them to take one of me so I can prove I was actually here. There was a police presence in the square because of the crowd which was good because a fight broke out around 10:00 pm so I decided that was my cue to walk back to my hotel. Prague has very little violent crime and I feel safe walking around. However, I am smart about it and try to walk near other people, have an idea where I'm going before I start out, etc. The city is very walkable and has a good tram/bus/train system.
Wandering down a side street were some open vistas overlooking the city, lined with the art nouveau glass lanterns. Walking back over the Charles Bridge I took some evening photos of the saints lining the bridge and then happened upon the lighting of the Christmas tree in Old Town and saw the famous Astronomical Clock. The Christmas markets were open and the square was packed to bursting.
I stopped in a little shop with wifi to grab a hot chocolate and ended up meeting a nice couple from Florida. We got to chatting and when they ordered their second pizza, I asked if it was good. They said yes, they were going to order a third to take back to their hotel. They offered me a piece and we chatted. When their third pizza came, they gave me another piece and wished me well as I tried to make an opera.
There was no opera, only Shakespeare and I didn't feel like listening to Iambic pentameter with a Czech accent, sooooo, I headed back to Old Town and took some more photos of the tree and tower. I offer to take photos of couples and then ask them to take one of me so I can prove I was actually here. There was a police presence in the square because of the crowd which was good because a fight broke out around 10:00 pm so I decided that was my cue to walk back to my hotel. Prague has very little violent crime and I feel safe walking around. However, I am smart about it and try to walk near other people, have an idea where I'm going before I start out, etc. The city is very walkable and has a good tram/bus/train system.
To Prague and Back Again - DAY 1:
Prague was a last minute trip decision, I just needed to get out of Dodge and I didn't really care where. I've been working way too much and needed to take a break and have some fun.
Europe is always my first choice for vacation. Its history and architecture are fascinating. I've traveled to Germany, Austria, France, Italy and now the Czech Republic. I always try to learn a few key phrases before I visit another country so as not to be "the ugly American".
I find that even if you completely mispronounce something, the effort is appreciated. At least with Latin-based languages like Italian and French, they weren't too bard to pick up a few things like, "Hello, where is, how much, directions, types of food, please, thank you", etc. However, things are a bit different with Czech. It's basically a bunch of consonants with a lot of accents that aren't pronounced like you would think. It is so different from any other language. It's a bit like a combination of Russian and German.
Having said that, I bought a phrase book and am trying. I have most of the above phrases down but mercifully most people speak at least a little English and have been very helpful with directions.
So, my trip began last Thursday; yes, Thanksgiving. My parents were thrilled, not. For the first time in years we had a full table and my Mom was happy to have more than four people to cook for. After a few short hours, turkey and the trimmings and a lot of Italian desserts, it was time to go. I drove home and called a cab to meet me at my house. I actually saw the cab across the intersection from my house and we arrived at the same time. I threw the bags in and away we went. He seemed to have to restart the cab/van a couple of times while driving but didn't seem worried so I took this to be normal course for the vehicle and frankly my mind was on other things like, "What the hell am I doing? I just decided to go to Prague two days ago and haven't even read the guide book yet. Am I crazy?"
When I told my brother about my plans to leave Thanksgiving night and try to make dinner, at my parents for a few hours, drive home at 2:30 pm, grab a cab and get to the airport at 4:00 pm for a 6:00 pm flight, he said, "That seems crazy ambitious and totally in line with who you are." Exactly. Pack as much in as possible, that's my philosophy. Carpe Diem. There is so much I want to do and see in this life, I have to get in what I can when possible.
So, after the fitful cab ride, I made it to the British Airways gate and breezed through security with plenty of time to spare. See Gerry? :p
It really is a small world. While in line at check-in, I met a girl returning home to the Czech Republic and she told me some places I should visit, I also saw a guy in line who ended up sitting behind me and then we ran into each other the next day at Prague Castle.
The flight to Heathrow went pretty quick but I couldn't sleep, no surprise to most of you. I ended up talking most of the flight to a guy sitting one seat away from me from Northboro who was going to Barcelona. The woman sitting between us spoke only Portuguese so he was practicing his Spanish with her. I stopped talking to him after he had three wines and two Glenlivet nips. Heathrow is huge and I never saw the outside of Terminal 5. I'll have to check out the shopping on my return layover (almost 4 hours).
DAY 1:
Arrival in Prague was great, I hit an ATM (Bankomat) and met a private driver I hired to bring me directly to the hotel because there isn't public transportation that runs to the airport. The Hotel Petr is cute and on a quiet side street. However, because overnight flights get in early, my room wasn't ready yet. I was exhausted and wanted a shower or a nap. Instead, I sucked it up, locked up one bag, took my backpack and went to explore the city.
This is the first trip where I don't have something planned every day, let alone every hour. It's been nice and I've happened upon some great sights, side streets and beautiful views. I found an internet cafe and sent a, "I made it, I'm not dead," email to the fam. Found a huge bookstore and bought a Czech phrase book. There were also posters everywhere for Twilight: New Moon but in Czech (pics are for you Kelly and Liz!)
In my wanderings, was the Charles Bridge. A must-see bridge crossing the Vltava (Vultava) River with statues of saints along it, watching over you. At night, some can look ominous but still beautiful. I crossed over into Old Town and walked around the tourist shops (sorry, nothing great to bring home, just cheap, touristy stuff.) Walking back along the bridge, I took some night photos of the Castle in the distance with its reflection on the Vltava. Since I didn't know the tram routes yet, I chose to walk back and have probably walked about six miles a day. It feels good. I drive too much at home and miss a lot while in the car. Walking allows you to take more in, sights, smells, atmosphere. Europeans definitely walk more than Americans but they smoke more so that pretty much levels the playing field.
Europe is always my first choice for vacation. Its history and architecture are fascinating. I've traveled to Germany, Austria, France, Italy and now the Czech Republic. I always try to learn a few key phrases before I visit another country so as not to be "the ugly American".
I find that even if you completely mispronounce something, the effort is appreciated. At least with Latin-based languages like Italian and French, they weren't too bard to pick up a few things like, "Hello, where is, how much, directions, types of food, please, thank you", etc. However, things are a bit different with Czech. It's basically a bunch of consonants with a lot of accents that aren't pronounced like you would think. It is so different from any other language. It's a bit like a combination of Russian and German.
Having said that, I bought a phrase book and am trying. I have most of the above phrases down but mercifully most people speak at least a little English and have been very helpful with directions.
So, my trip began last Thursday; yes, Thanksgiving. My parents were thrilled, not. For the first time in years we had a full table and my Mom was happy to have more than four people to cook for. After a few short hours, turkey and the trimmings and a lot of Italian desserts, it was time to go. I drove home and called a cab to meet me at my house. I actually saw the cab across the intersection from my house and we arrived at the same time. I threw the bags in and away we went. He seemed to have to restart the cab/van a couple of times while driving but didn't seem worried so I took this to be normal course for the vehicle and frankly my mind was on other things like, "What the hell am I doing? I just decided to go to Prague two days ago and haven't even read the guide book yet. Am I crazy?"
When I told my brother about my plans to leave Thanksgiving night and try to make dinner, at my parents for a few hours, drive home at 2:30 pm, grab a cab and get to the airport at 4:00 pm for a 6:00 pm flight, he said, "That seems crazy ambitious and totally in line with who you are." Exactly. Pack as much in as possible, that's my philosophy. Carpe Diem. There is so much I want to do and see in this life, I have to get in what I can when possible.
So, after the fitful cab ride, I made it to the British Airways gate and breezed through security with plenty of time to spare. See Gerry? :p
It really is a small world. While in line at check-in, I met a girl returning home to the Czech Republic and she told me some places I should visit, I also saw a guy in line who ended up sitting behind me and then we ran into each other the next day at Prague Castle.
The flight to Heathrow went pretty quick but I couldn't sleep, no surprise to most of you. I ended up talking most of the flight to a guy sitting one seat away from me from Northboro who was going to Barcelona. The woman sitting between us spoke only Portuguese so he was practicing his Spanish with her. I stopped talking to him after he had three wines and two Glenlivet nips. Heathrow is huge and I never saw the outside of Terminal 5. I'll have to check out the shopping on my return layover (almost 4 hours).
DAY 1:
Arrival in Prague was great, I hit an ATM (Bankomat) and met a private driver I hired to bring me directly to the hotel because there isn't public transportation that runs to the airport. The Hotel Petr is cute and on a quiet side street. However, because overnight flights get in early, my room wasn't ready yet. I was exhausted and wanted a shower or a nap. Instead, I sucked it up, locked up one bag, took my backpack and went to explore the city.
This is the first trip where I don't have something planned every day, let alone every hour. It's been nice and I've happened upon some great sights, side streets and beautiful views. I found an internet cafe and sent a, "I made it, I'm not dead," email to the fam. Found a huge bookstore and bought a Czech phrase book. There were also posters everywhere for Twilight: New Moon but in Czech (pics are for you Kelly and Liz!)
In my wanderings, was the Charles Bridge. A must-see bridge crossing the Vltava (Vultava) River with statues of saints along it, watching over you. At night, some can look ominous but still beautiful. I crossed over into Old Town and walked around the tourist shops (sorry, nothing great to bring home, just cheap, touristy stuff.) Walking back along the bridge, I took some night photos of the Castle in the distance with its reflection on the Vltava. Since I didn't know the tram routes yet, I chose to walk back and have probably walked about six miles a day. It feels good. I drive too much at home and miss a lot while in the car. Walking allows you to take more in, sights, smells, atmosphere. Europeans definitely walk more than Americans but they smoke more so that pretty much levels the playing field.
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